froginmythroat (FIMT)

There are those with a vested interest who make claims that Aceh, wrapped in the blanket of sariah law, is a haven for peity and dignity. That Aceh’s upstanding citizenship are a breed who dare not stray far from the policed boundaries of “polite” Muslim behaviour. The rest of the Acehnese, who don’t make such claims but nevertheless follow the rules, either just get on with living because they don’t care in the first instance, or when they need to take their “un-polite” behaviour to “liberated” zones.

Looks like a peaceful place

Pulah Weh (Weh Island), known locally by the name Sabang, the biggest town on the island, is a place I claim as such a liberated zone. Why? Firstly, Sabang is a hotbed of political activity, and as such befits a politically loaded word. Liberated is a politically loaded word. Sabang is home to a deep water free port run under the protection and custodianship of your friendly local Indonesian Army (TNI) brigade. Need a new vehicle from Singapore? Get one from the TNI, tax but not bribe free, and drive it around the island, although try to take it to the mainland and you will be taxed heavily. Need to land your ship full of humanitarian or military cargo to support the reconstruction of Aceh? Once again the TNI can “facilitate” this. Need drugs? Just ask the local law enforcement, only make sure they don’t turn around and arrest you on the spot straight afterwards.

The second reason I call Sabang a liberated zone is because its beaches are places that are more liberal than Banda Aceh. This is not because the local communities of Iboih and Gapang are necessary inherently less strict, but perhaps because they are a place away from home, and as such Bandaites feel it’s an environment in which certain restrictions can be relaxed. Unmarried cohabitation in bungalows, removal of jilbabs (headscarves) and full arm and leg coverings for women, and consumption of alcohol are examples of non-conservative Muslim behaviour. But before you start thinking this is a great place to start a Liberal party take note: bikinis are still sinful.

Speedos aren’t cool either

Iboih vs Gapang

Pulah Weh plays host to two main tourist zones – Iboih and Gapang beach. Which is better? Iboih has much nicer and clearer water, Gapang is bigger (one strip of beach) and so allows a larger set of intermingling people, whilst Iboih is smaller/cosier physically (consisting of a series of very small bays) and population wise.

Friendly locals

Both Iboih and Gapang have friendly locals. During my time at an Iboih bungalow I met a friendly young Indonesian women who seemed a lot more liberated than the women I had previously meet in Aceh. She smoked, joked, and flirted with the group of us as we relaxed in the communal area and played cards. Later she said in jest she would visit me in my bungalow at night, and I jibingly agreed.

Iboih bungalows

Our host was another friendly woman who didn’t seem to practice conservative Muslim behaviour. Rather she seemed to like bananas. Whilst Freud may have seen this as sign of penis envy, I took her fascination with fruit and male genital analogies as good hearted fun. Nevertheless, her behaviour would be frowned upon by pious claim makers, and because of the conservative Aceh majority others would look down on her too. It’s a pity for the more liberally minded, and a loss for the Aceh comedy industry.

Whilst her comedic aspirations may never be realised in Aceh, other underground industries still operate, and the liberated zone of Sabang is a place where one can find them. A promise made in jest is a promise after all, and later that night my most recent new female friend did indeed visit me in the night. Prostitution between Westerners men and Asian women blurs the line between the ‘genuine’ friendship and the economic-sexually exchange. It was not until I had already let her into my bungalow in the middle of the night, that I realised that she was piloting the relationship in the economic-sexual exchange direction. What to do? Not being interested in such a relationship I avoided all advances. I lacked the courage to tell her to leave, considering after all that I had somewhat agreed in the first instance and that I should at least appear consistent even if I didn’t feel it. I knew those assertiveness courses were a good idea. I tried to fall asleep with her sleeping beside me, while the aftermath of the morning after would have to wait. Thankfully it wasn’t too painful.

You can even swim here too