Sumbawa

Sumbawa – an Indonesian island east of Lombok, which is east of Bali. The only reasons to go there are if you are

  • a volcanist studying the eruption of Mt Tambora, the greatest volcanic eruption in recorded history, although you would be 200 years late as it occurred in 1815.
  • a Newmont mining company executive involved in resource extraction or other forms of ‘maximising shareholder value’
  • the 1 expat who lives on the island. His name is Scott.
  • visiting a microfinance organisation to evaluate their information system

Although volcanism is a pet hobby of mine, as is maximising shareholder value, I was there to see if the 9th wonder of the world – information technology – could assist a local microfinance institution become more efficient. I say the 9th wonder of the world because it is a wonder if it actually ever works.

Mt Rinjani
Climb at least one mountain in your life – this one is Mt Rinjani on Lombok, taken from the Sumbawa ferry

To get to Sumbawa you can fly to Lombok and then take a bus plus a ferry (complete with roaming minstrels and travelling salesmen) to Sumbawa. I booked my flight from Aceh and was told that the plane was full, but I could take someone else’s ticket, although it would be in their name. So I assumed the identity of a one Mr Salih and boarded the plane without trouble, only to find plenty of seats available. Dodgy travel agent business practices aside, the flight proceeded without problem.

Sumbawa Besar, one of the main towns on Sumbawa, is a place you would call ‘nice’. My intermediate school English teacher told me never to use the word ‘nice’. But like the admirer who is ‘a really nice person, but…..’ Sumbawa Besar is a really nice place, but …. there is not much there. Or maybe there is but I just didn’t find it. If you aren’t Scott please write to me if you find something on Sumbawa you could call more than just nice.

Moyo Utara Traditional Village Houses
Not the Amanwana resort on Moyo Island, but traditional village houses in Moyo Utara

Sumbawa Besar has a fine selection of quaint and cosy home-stays, none of which I stayed in. Nearby Moyo Island is home to the luxurious Amanwana resort, although with neither the fame nor fortune to mix and mingle with its celebrity clientele I wouldn’t be staying there, though maybe I could have lodged with the island’s small population of fisher folk. I settled for the Hotel Cirebon and made a mental note to fire my press agent who just isn’t getting me the publicity I need to make it as a big star.

Raduyah the grilled fish seller
Raduyah sharing her business secrets

As part of the three days I spent with the microfinance organisation, I was taken to one of the villages where they worked and introduced to some members. This is Raduyah. Her business is selling fantastic tasting grilled fish. Everyday she purchases the raw product, fresh fish, and grills in it a delicious sate. The fish is then packed into a bowl, which weighs a ton, and then carried on her head to the market. She stated the business with a $US30 loan from the microfinance organisation. For her business is not about money, it is simply about survival.

One night at the Cirebon the power went off and so one of the hotel staff come to my room with a candle. I let him in and he proceeded to set the candle on the table and start the bath running. He came back and helped himself to a seat and made conversation. After some small talk he asked me if I wanted a ‘massage’. I laughed and replied ‘you mean, do I want a girl?’ To this he replied, with the glowing candlelight and sound of bath water running in the background, ‘No, me’. He was one smooth operator, all he needed to do was put on some soft music and feed me grapes and I would have been his, but tonight wasn’t going to be his night. If he had that what-did-I-do-morning-after feeling it didn’t show the next day when I checked out.

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4 Comments »

  1. Steve said

    So your micro-finance operation doesn’t extend its services to the Sumbawa male gigilo industry?

  2. Croaky said

    A good loan manager should know their client’s business well. But I missed the opportunity to learn the ins and outs of the trade that night, and so wouldn’t make a good loan manager for the Sumbawa male gigilo industry. Any idea what their capital financing requirements might be?

  3. Steve said

    Start-up costs for a Sumbawaian Gigilo Franchise include the purchase of a candle. Therefore, total start-up costs range between 1 – 2 dollars depending on the size and quality of the candle.

    However, the real cost for the Sumbawian Gigilo comes from the ongoing capital required to purchase the matches to light the candle. While most Sumbawians tend to purchase their matches one at a time, a Sumbawian Gigilo would need to raise the capital to purchase a full box of matches to realise the economoies of scale efficiencies.

    In this industry the barriers to entry are low, and the threat of substitues is high. It is a low margin, high volume trade.

    The procurement of matches and candles is an ongoing issue for Sumbawian Gigilo. This is where you come in as a micro-financier. By providing the capital to purchase matches in bulk, the Sumbawian Gigilo can then focus on what they do best – servicing the customer.

  4. Croaky said

    Such a penetrating business mind as yours illuminates the male gigolo match problem in much the same way his candle illuminates the insides of a seedy motel room.

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