froginmythroat (FIMT)

Our ride out of Hsipaw was by train, much more pleasant (and slower) than a public bus. We crossed the Goteik bridge, the most impressive railway bridge of its kind when it was built. I noticed all the railway crossing were manned. Where we would have a motorised barrier, there was a little shack and a person would came out when the train passed and lower the barrier arm. All the while a roaming one-legged minstrel strummed away on his guitar and sang (before asking for money).

Arriving in Mandalay kids scurried into the carriage looking for plastic bottles to stuff into their sacks and later exchange for a few kyats each.

So we returned to Mandalay, then Yangon, and then east to Pathein. Walking around town the University of Pathein caught my eye. I asked several people if foreigners were allowed in and got two yes’s and one no. I figured that was a yes and headed on in. Chatting to a student it wasn’t long before a middle aged man approached me and asked me to kindly bugger off. Foreigners were not allowed it seemed.

Pathein was just a one night stop, our ultimate destination was Chaungtha Beach. On the way we had to cross a river by ferry. For foreigners the price was $5US, locals nothing. By this stage I was fed up with the illegitimate government (80% of voters choose the opposition in the 1990 elections, and the results have so far not been honoured) illegitimately asking me for money, and with the acquiescence of locals on the bus I hid. Emerging no poorer on the other side and in gratitude, I distributed tea to those around me.

U Ki’s grandfather owned a hotel in Chaungtha and we were able to stay for free. I visited the newly built Hotel Max, a week before I had seen Secretary-1 General Khin Nyunt opening it on TV, well done Khin. The beach wasn’t beautiful. There was a rock with a pagoda on it, no surprise for Myanmar, but it was very ordinary, not balancing or anything.

Leaving Myanmar, we caught a bus as far as we could to the airport, then in the style that pervaded most of our travels, we started to walk the rest of the way! We’ld only taken one taxi so far in the whole journey, could we keep it way? Maybe if we hadn’t got lost trying to find the airport. That makes only two taxi trips on our travels. All the rest shared transport, foot, or cyclo.

It was sad saying goodbye to U Ki La Ta at the airport. As I passed through immigration the officer asked me when I would come back to Myanmar. I said when democracy arrived I would return. He laughed. “Maybe it’ll be awhile” I replied. I hope not.

LINK: Is democracy always the solution?